Bea Bongiasca is known for her iconic eclectic enamel designs and the jewelry found on today's hottest stars, and she has undoubtedly earned her fame. Until recently, she mainly used colored gemstone crystals instead of diamonds. But now, she is taking her latest collection "When Vine become Fine" into the world of fine jewelry. Her new ring comes in five styles, 18K gold and 21 enamel colors for you to choose from, starting at US$6,600. She talked about her bold style, where she found inspiration and how she started using diamonds.
Bea's "You're So Vine" series ring
Have you always wanted to be a jewelry designer, or did you want to pursue another career path?
Becoming a jewelry designer is definitely something I have always been passionate about. In the creative industry, I really like sculpture and set design, so these areas will be interesting. If I have to have nothing to do with art, I will either open a travel agency, or study Japanese in Venice, and then go to Japan.
Earrings and necklaces from the "Flower Funk" series
How did you launch your jewelry collection? What are the challenges that follow?
I launched my brand in the same year I graduated with honors from my Bachelor of Jewelry Design at Central Saint Martins in London. From registering a brand to graphic design, to finding a jewelry making studio in Italy, it took me about a year to integrate everything together.
Face challenges like any brand new business, such as ensuring that my marketing, payment processing and manufacturing are perfect. Of course, manufacturing quality is the most important and consistent with this.
"Flower Funk" series ring
You are known for your incredible enamel designs. What is the inspiration behind enamel?
In the "You're so Vine" series, I was inspired by my previous flower series, which is the secret language of botany and flowers. The idea is that these fragments, just like they are in nature, have been intertwined and taken over by the vines. Only in this case, gold jewelry will be "contaminated" by color, which usually does not appear in high-end jewelry. The evolution from pure gold to bright enamel on gold gives jewelry a dynamic movement and a bold pop look. The name of the series is based on the concept of climbing plants in puns, which complements our playful attitude and irony towards jewelry.
Your design is colorful, interesting and vibrant. Would you describe your personal style as the same? What is your daily jewelry?
As a designer, my aesthetics and brand are integrated, so I think (I hope!) people who know me will say that I am a funny, colorful, happy and optimistic person-this is what I want my jewelry to convey good. My first choice may be Baby Vine rings. They are jewellery made with all the enamel colors we use, so I always have the right one for any outfit or occasion. This is also the first truly popular work we have produced, and it has been our bestseller since its launch. I must give it the importance and respect it deserves as a breadwinner of the brand! In addition, every time I see my friends, they always want to know which one (or five) I will wear this time. It is my expectation and the main item I wear day and night.
Bea's asymmetric flower energy earrings come in multiple colors
Which jewelry trends do you think are eternal?
I believe that the trend is that jewelry can and should be interesting, it does not always have to be traditional, and it should be timeless. In my opinion, the jewels that can make you feel good are eternal.
'When Vine become Fine' is Bea's first series using diamonds
Tell us something about your new series "When Vine become Fine" and where you found inspiration for these works.
We have just launched our first high-end jewelry collection, based on the success of "You're So Vine!" The iconic enamel vines of the series are now curled on gold and diamonds, making the jewelry infinitely precious while maintaining a modern and fresh side.
Brightly colored enamels are intertwined with more traditional materials, injecting new vitality into them. The 18K gold was "contaminated" by twisted vines, while beautiful sparkling diamonds nestled in places where there were semi-precious stones before. The rings in this series are available in five fancy cuts-heart, oval, marquis, pear and trillion-with 21 enamel colors to choose from. They can be worn on any finger and stacked. The size of the diamond is perfectly balanced, creating an affordable stone of about 0.70 carats. Enamel vines can also be removed for a more traditional appearance. The series also includes a series of exquisite and eye-catching diamond stud earrings. Each of the five different shapes is wrapped in colorful enamel or golden vines. Finally, one of our best-selling products, Baby Vine rings, has also been transformed into 18K gold, giving them a new high-end appearance.
Bea's new boutique collection includes her iconic enamel with "contaminated" gold and diamonds
What made you get involved and use diamonds to enter the field of fine jewelry?
I started using diamonds to make some engagement rings for my friends privately, and then I participated in the De Beers 10/10 project at the beginning of the year, which also helped me try to make a beautiful collection. Jewels are like pyramids with diamonds on top. So far, I have been working hard to maintain a unique brand beauty, and now I can apply it to cream, diamonds and 18K gold that are considered to be the jewelry industry. This is the next step towards the brand and the feeling of maintaining my strong identity.
Bea Bongiasca pink enamel and diamond ring
What are your favorite aspects of using diamonds?
My favorite aspect is that when the first samples of the finished product arrive at the studio, they are still very new to me, so very exciting because they look so fresh, elegant and sophisticated. The works we make with diamonds are very simple, because you need to add value to the diamonds, and not overly exaggerated in design. I like that I can do this without losing my design style and iconic enamel flare.
A ring from the new series, "When the vines get better!"
Which piece of jewelry in this collection do you like best and why?
It's too early for me to have a favorite. I need to wear all the pieces in turn, and then based on the pieces that I can't seem to take off, I will find my special jewelry.
Your design has been worn by many big-name celebrities. Since you started your production line, what has been your pinch moment?
Dressing for celebrities is great, and it's all moments to pinch me. When Dua Lipa, Gemma Chan, Olivia Rodrigo, Megan Fox, Miley Cyrus and Camila Cabello (to name a few) wore my works, I was very happy to see them because it was still a crazy and humble experience. Having said that, I think the fact that people wear my jewelry is, in general, all I can ask for, because thanks to them, I can have a successful brand and continue to do what I love. It’s really the best feeling to see big stars I don’t know wearing, sharing, and posting my jewelry. I’m really grateful.
Dua Lipa has always worn my works, from Puma and Evian advertisements to music videos and street styles, which is incredibly moving for the brand and me. This shows how much she loves the brand and is a big fan of the brand.
This interview has been slightly edited.