Liza Urla of Gemologue described her selection from some contemporary collections.
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Liza Urla describes herself as "exploring jewelry nomads around the world".
She wrote in an email that most of the wanderlust stems from her role as the woman behind Gemologue, and the blog she founded in 2009 was "A dialogue between jewelry lovers about gems." When Ms. Urla did not create content for people she estimated to have more than 200,000 fans, she played many roles in the jewelry industry in her London home: guiding the brand in design and marketing decisions, serving as a special curator for auction houses Bonhams and Sotheby's, And served as a judge in the global jewelry competition.
She said that she fell in love with jewellery for the first time when she was living in Vienna in 2008 and 2009, where the luxury balls and events are part of the world of high-end jewellery. (This experience inspired her to move to New York City to attend the Gemological Institute of America.)
Ms. Urla said that when she launched Gemologue, the jewelry brand avoided the Internet for fear of copying her work, preferring the hyper-programmed environment of glossy magazine advertisements. She said that her goal is to display jewelry in a street-style environment. "Every jewelry has a story, and I want to share it with as many people as possible," she wrote. This is also the reason behind her book "Gemologue: Street Jewelry Style and Styling Techniques" published in 2018, which was originally published in English and recently published in Mandarin.
She said that the most precious thing in her own jewelry box is a vintage Zarja watch inherited from her Russian grandmother Beatrisa. "When I was young, I admired the jewelry style of hardworking women and noticed how much light and confidence it gave them," she wrote. "Jewelry has the gift of empowering the wearer."
In order to gain insight into Ms. Urla's attitude towards contemporary jewelry, we asked her to describe her five favorite works in her recent collection. Her comments have been edited and condensed.
Joy Bonfield-Colombara is an artist and goldsmith passionate about sculpture jewelry. In this hand-carved ring from the Precious Tears collection, she uses the blue light of sapphires set in 18-carat gold to symbolize teardrops. This is the juxtaposition of the power of sapphire and the fragility of our tears. This ring is full of emotion and personality. I feel like I am wearing a miniature sculpture artwork (each one needs three to six months to hand-carve). Precious tears evoke feelings of joy, laughter, and surprise, but they also evoke feelings of sadness, mourning, and loss. This is the perfect gift for loved ones in need. Application price.
Gorgeous amber is complemented by cold diamonds on this gorgeous bracelet. This ring comes from The Amber Collection by Fawaz Gruosi and is a fearless expression of creativity. Exploration of modern design and ancient materials. Amber is a fossil material and a natural phenomenon. This is an unexpected pleasure, a pristine miracle washed on the beaches of the Baltic Sea. When I looked at the golden depths of this amber bracelet, I felt a direct connection with my Russian roots. Pear-shaped diamonds (VVS2, so only a very, very small part) are set in 18-carat rose gold, giving the cuffs a modern feel. Application price.
Calm pink quartz and serene amethyst tones complement the energy of citrine. These Gleam earrings, designed by Brazilian jewelry designer Fernando Jorge, evoke strength and confidence. These 18-carat gold earrings adopt the dynamic design of his Flame High Jewelry Collection, which fits the natural curves of female ears like dove wings. The streamlined lines and the shape of the wings refreshed my spirits and instantly improved my mood. This is a jewelry theme that I like very much. In order to make these beautiful winged earrings, a skilled jeweller will work for about a week until each layer of crystal is perfectly and seamlessly attached to the next layer. Incredible achievement. USD 24,000.
The Antonio Bernardo puzzle ring combines luxury with entertainment, which is both delightful and a masterpiece. This 18-carat tri-color gold ring is reminiscent of this sentence: simple art is a complex puzzle. The Life Is a Puzzle ring adopts an innovative design and came out in 2006 and has since become a global iconic jewellery. It takes incredible imagination and skill to make every piece of gold alloy puzzle. Putting on the ring is to indulge in a different game. Putting together and taking apart, just to show precision and exquisite craftsmanship. So smooth and tactile, this is an incredibly soothing ring. Unisex and unique. 56,700 Brazilian Real, or US$10,100.
I like Paraiba tourmalines. I was lost in the depths of the crystals of this gem, like the warm ocean of the Maldives. Di Candelero's Constellation ring is hand-crafted in 18-carat white gold and shining with 247 diamonds. I love how the starburst in the center of the ring focuses on the charming Paraíba tourmaline. Contrasting textures and exquisite real galaxies. To create such a masterpiece, skilled craftsmen need at least a week to complete. A personalized ring that evokes the dreams of every man and woman. This is the power of Paraiba tourmaline. 17,000 USD.